I’m passionate about food and wine. As a result, they usually play a part in whatever I write, and with good reason.
Food and wine can be used in a number of ways by writers. Characters dining at a famous
fin de siècle restaurant or enjoying a bottle of wine from a noted vintage are just two ways of marking time and place in a story. But that’s not food and wine’s only function. In the real world, good food and wine are focal points for socialization; a way for people to connect with each other. From courtship rituals to passing on of family history around the dinner table, food and wine promote conviviality and communication. Vampire Veronica Fontera uses that conviviality to begin the process of putting Andrew under her influence in the very first chapter of Night Market after J.P. Morgan instructs Andrew to take her to dinner at the Waldorf.
The Waldorf of 1895, though, was far from the Waldorf-Astoria we know today. Built in 1893 by William Waldorf Astor near the corner of 34th Street and Fifth Avenue, it stood next door to the home of his aunt Caroline Webster Schermerhorn Astor, with whom he had a long-running dispute. Legend has it that William built the hotel there to annoy Aunt Caroline, who was one of the Gilded Age gatekeepers of New York society.
In 1897, Caroline’s son John Jacob Astor IV built the Astoria Hotel just on the other side of her home. As a planned insult to William, the Astoria was four stories taller than the Waldorf. But this building was also operated by George Boldt, who not only supervised construction of both hotels, but had the two structures connected by Peacock Alley a few years later when Caroline was persuaded to move uptown, finally giving us not only the world’s largest hotel of the time, but the now familiar name of Waldorf-Astoria. And there the hotel remained until 1929 when it was torn down to be replaced by the Empire State Building.
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| The Waldorf Hotel. Photo: Library of Congress. |
But back in those early days, at least part of the notoriety the Waldorf hotel achieved was due to it’s maître d'hôtel, who was even then known as ‘Oscar of the Waldorf’.
Oscar of the Waldorf, or Oscar Tschirky, was born in Canton de Neuchatel Switzerland in 1866. After taking his education at La Chaux-le-Fonds, he emigrated to New York in 1883. Popular accounts of the day claim he obtained his first job at the Hoffman House on Broadway the day he got off the boat. By 1891 Oscar headed Delmonico’s catering department and in 1893 or 1894 George Boldt hired him for the Waldorf Hotel. Soon after, the legend was born.
Oscar quickly became the visible personality of dining at the Waldorf Hotel and later the Waldorf-Astoria. Stories are told that when he dined at the Waldorf, J.P. Morgan insisted his meals be personally supervised by Oscar. And Morgan wasn’t the only prominent personality to enjoy Oscar’s attention. By the time he retired in 1943, Oscar had been awarded orders by several heads of state and foreign governments.
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| Oscar of the Waldorf in 1923. No one in the hospitality business was happy during Prohibition. Photo: Library of Congress. |
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A number of dishes served at the hotel over the decades came to be associated with Oscar, including the famous Waldorf salad, Veal Oscar, and Eggs Benedict, even though the veal and egg dishes allegedly have other origins. Oscar did, however popularize a salad dressing for George Boldt: Thousand Island Dressing.
But even though Oscar’s stock in trade was taking care of the hotel’s guests, he was an administrator and innovator too. At one time the staff he supervised is said to have numbered close to a thousand. And Oscar established the first school for waiters in the United States.
So what did Andrew and Veronica eat at that first dinner at the Waldorf? Their meal began with turtle soup, a popular first course of the day, and then progressed to steaks, with Veronica ordering hers ‘bleu’; quite natural for someone who is Undead. And to go with the steaks, a Chateau Kirwan.
A menu from the Waldorf just the following year, listed turtle soup at $1.00 and filet at $1.50 (sorry, I couldn’t find one of their wine lists from that era). It sounds great, doesn’t it? But using the CPI, that $1.00 turtle soup translates into $26.80 today, and the filet ends up costing in excess of $40. You can explore comparative measures of purchasing power and the value of the dollar over time at the
Measuring Worth website.
For anyone who wants to try Oscar Tschirky’s famous salad, here’s an updated recipe straight from the
Waldof-Astoria’s kitchens. And it’s just the right excuse to open a California Sauvignon Blanc or an Alsace Riesling.